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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.